I want to provide you with some important information regarding the care of your plants upon receiving them.
It is beneficial to create a high humidity environment for them to recover from the journey. This helps to minimize the stress they may have experienced during transportation. If you don't have a prop box, greenhouse, or cabinet, you can use a clear plastic bag, sealed tightly. Alternatively, clear containers like deli containers or salad boxes can be utilized. Remember to open the bag or container for a short period each day to allow fresh air circulation.
I highly recommend leaving the plant in the substrate it was shipped in while it recovers. If it was shipped in a nursery bag, you can place the roots and moss into a cup, small nursery pot, etc. Keep moss moist but not wet. Recovery can take approximately a week to a month or more, depending on the plant. Once it has recuperated, you can transfer it to your preferred substrate for further rooting. If the plant is already fully rooted, you can then place it in soil.
For cuttings, it is best to keep them in a brightly lit area that maintains warmth and humidity.
If you choose to root your cuttings in water, please note that this method may not be ideal for all plants. If the cuttings were previously rooted in another medium, some or all of the roots may rot and fall off when placed in water. This is normal, and new roots will eventually grow. To root your cuttings in water, remove as much moss as possible by soaking the roots in water and gently pulling off the moss. Place the cutting in fresh water, changing the water daily to keep it oxygenated. You can also add an air stone to the water if desired. Remember to keep the cutting in a warm and humid environment for faster rooting.
If you prefer rooting your cuttings in sphagnum moss, place the cutting on top of the moss with the aerial root touching (or in) the moss. For certain plants like Monstera albo and Monstera aurea, it is important to avoid the stem touching the substrate. In this case, you can use a bamboo stick or similar item to hold the stem with a node slightly above the substrate and place only the aerial root in the moss. Keep the moss damp, but not wet, and consider adding perlite to make it more airy. This is especially beneficial for plants that are prone to rot. Again, maintaining a warm and humid environment will aid in faster rooting.
If you choose to use Fluval Stratum, using a clear container without holes is the easiest method. Start by placing a layer of chunky perlite or pumice at the bottom of the container. You may also use Leca or any other airy substrate. Cover the bottom layer with Stratum to your desired level. Place your cutting on top of the Stratum with the aerial root down, touching the Stratum. As with the previous methods, a warm and humid environment will promote faster rooting.
When potting up your fully rooted plant, it is advisable to remove as much moss as possible without damaging the roots. You can place the entire root ball, including the moss, into the appropriate soil mix if desired. Leaving some or all of the moss can help the roots acclimate to the soil better, but be cautious not to overwater if the moss is left on the roots. Begonias prefer not to have their roots messed with, so I highly recommend placing the root ball with moss attached directly into a begonia soil mix. The moss will eventually decompose and become part of the soil.
If you are transitioning to a hydro or semi-hydro setup, all the moss must be removed. If the moss is still in good condition, it can be sanitized by microwaving or baking (please research proper methods before attempting).
Note that many Monstera varieties do not tolerate their stem or vine touching the substrate. Always keep the node above the substrate and avoid burying it, as this can lead to rot.
Starter plants or baby plants require extra attention until they grow larger. These plants have smaller roots, so continue the rooting process using your chosen substrate (water, moss, stratum, or perlite) until the main roots develop secondary roots that are at least an inch long. If you decide to move the plant to water, the moss roots may die off, so you will essentially be starting from scratch. However, please remember to do what works best for you. If you use a moss mixture, ensure it is damp rather than soggy. To determine the ideal moisture level, wet the moss until it is soaking wet, then squeeze until only a few drops come out. Mixing moss with perlite can be helpful as it prevents excessive moisture and compaction, allowing the roots to receive the necessary oxygen. Once again, maintaining high humidity is crucial for the success of starter plants.
The choice of substrate is important. Consider purchasing or making a quality substrate that suits your plant's specific needs.
Most aroids prefer a chunky substrate. Using soil that retains water, such as Miracle Grow soil, is not recommended. Personally, I prefer using Fox Farms Ocean Forest as a base. For plants that thrive in chunky soil, I mix in orchid bark, chunky coco husk, and large perlite (#3) to create a more airy mixture. There are other good soil options available, but these are just a few examples to consider.
Most begonias prefer a substrate that will retain a bit more moisture while still receiving oxygen, but it is still not recommended to use Miracle Grow soils for them. I use Fox Farms Ocean Forest as a base and add perlite of varying sizes as well as coco peat. Typically I use a 1:1:1 mixture of these. Peat moss can also be used but I prefer coco peat as it’s more sustainable and typically allows the roots to receive more oxygen.
When it comes to pot size, it's essential to choose a pot that corresponds to the size of the roots, rather than the size of the plant itself. Using a pot that is too large can result in the soil staying moist for too long, leading to root rot. Ideally, you want the roots to fit comfortably in the pot, with minimal extra space. For example, if the root ball has a diameter of 2 inches, a pot with a size of 2.5 to 3 inches would be suitable.
I would like to recommend a few products that I personally find beneficial for plant care.
1. Botanicare Hydroguard: I use this product with every watering. It promotes root growth and helps decompose dead roots and other organic matter.
2. Silica: Another product I regularly use during watering. It needs to be mixed with water and allowed to sit for 30 minutes to an hour before adding other nutrients or additives. Silica strengthens plants, enabling them to withstand imperfect conditions such as excessive moisture or dryness, extreme temperatures, and more. It can also help maintain the vibrant coloration of highly variegated plants by reducing browning in the variegated sections.
If you have any questions or concerns about the health care of your plants, please feel free to reach out to me. I am here to assist you, whether or not you purchased the plant from me. Your satisfaction and the well-being of your plants are my top priorities!
Thank you once again for choosing my products. I appreciate your support, and I'm here to help in any way I can.